Fast fashion and its impact on the environment have sprung to international consciousness in the past few years.
Increasing numbers of shoppers are now appalled at how much water it takes to make a simple t-shirt and some manufacturers’ careless attitude to water, chemical, and energy use during the process.
But this concern is yet to translate into meaningful or widespread change for the better.
While there has been a lot of talk about the apparel industry moving from a linear economy – make, use, discard – to a circular one involving much more reuse, the challenge is now to put this theory into real, workable action.
This is where the textile dyer comes in – an often under-utilised figure who can positively influence decisions across the supply chain.
The power of the dyer
Presiding over a crucial midpoint in the production process, dyers have the power to shape and affect not only their own stage but what comes before and after.
Andrew Filarowski, technical director of the SDC, explained: “When appropriately trained and experienced dyers are consulted by designers and technicians early in the journey of a garment or other product, their scientific knowhow and experience with materials affords them the opportunity to make a real difference.
“This includes advising on the colour and light fastness of shades for longevity and the most sustainable choice of dye and dyeing process from all possible options. As we try to move towards slower fashion that will last longer and offer more re-use options, the dyer has a pivotal role to play.”
Dyers and designers
Designers are naturally drawn to the creative and the visual – and are often unaware of the technical specifications of their materials and how they perform, which may stand in the way of their vision and the achievable reality.
That’s where ASDC-qualified dyers come in with their very different expertise – including the principles and practices of keeping a well-run, well-managed and safe dyehouse, using the best possible dyestuffs.
Responsible dyers’ adherence to relevant standards on matters such as the discharge of hazardous chemicals, and robust health and safety policies, can have a huge impact on the carbon footprint of every item.
Andrew continues: “Dyers are not always invited into the design process early enough to ensure grand plans are workable and as kind as possible to the environment, and this is a real shame. Yet if fashion is serious about cleaning up its act, dyers with their knowledge and application of chemistry are the key to making this happen.”
Dyers stepping up on sustainability
Put simply, as brands and manufacturers increasingly try to do the right thing, chemical knowledge in the hands of appropriately trained dyers will become all the better recognised, and in demand.
Designers are not generally equipped to take the lead on the precise composition of fabrics and formulas for, and origins of, colours. It’s only by working together with dyers that things will start to change.
Andrew adds: “Better dyestuff and cleaner processes are absolutely pivotal to this shift and it’s the dyers of the future coming through the SDC’s courses now who understand and can make decisions regarding these areas.
“They will be the innovators in the years ahead as we strive to close that economic loop.”
12/03/2021